Wednesday, August 22, 2012

The Tea Series, Part Five. Ceylon: Beyond Lipton

 The Tea Series, Part Five

Ceylon, renamed Sri Lanka when the nation decided to go back to its original Sinhalese name, retained its old moniker for its exports because, in theory, it sounded "more romantic". Ceylon... the very name is evocative of vine covered temples, mist shrouded mountains, shitty generic tea that sits, waiting to pounce upon unsuspecting tea neophytes. Why the reputation for mediocre tea? Well, let's go back a bit (begin dream-like "return to the past" music".)

1867, a Scott named James Taylor helped with the first tea plantings, and soon discovered that the lowlands weather (warm, high rain fall) resulted in spectacular growth in the tea plant. How spectacular? Remember how Darjeeling has three main flushes, or pluckings per year? In the Ceylon lowlands they have a flush every 5-7 days! This abundance of growth, combined with a solid middlin' brew, made it a natural for high volume commercial use. Many famous companies, such as Lipton, made Ceylon its center for raw material production.


Thankfully, for those who like high quality tea, just as Italy can produce cheap red wine *and* fantastic Barolos and Brunellos, Ceylon has its own "Bordeaux", "Burgundy", and "Loire". Namely Dimbulla, Nuwara Eliya, and Uva. (How's *that* for mixed regional metaphors?). All of these are located in higher elevations, with far less pluckings than their lowland brethren. 


Dimbulla is located in the west highlands, and its best tea is plucked from January to March, when the cool climate and low humidity combine to concentrate the leaf sap. Light in body, and incredibly aromatic, they produce a clear gold liquor and wonderfully lingering aftertaste. My favorite Dimbulla is usually produced by the Kenilworth Estate and, at only about $35 per kilo (or about 8 cents per cup) a killer deal!


Nuwara Eliya is also on the western side of Sri Lanka, but higher up than Dimbulla. At elevations that approach 8000 feet, these gardens are some of the highest elevation plantations in the world. Light in body, blockbuster fragrance. If you find these teas, especially if the estate carries the honored names of Eliya Estate, or Lover's Leap, purchase unflinchingly, sez the Bear!


Uva is not the first name of an actress, but a region that is so high and steep, that often aerial rope ways are needed to harvest the tea! Because of their eastern slope local, their best season is from July to September. More reddish than their other Ceylon brethren, and more powerful, this tea is often described as less aromatic and complex than Dimbulla and Nuwara. Still, if you give some estates like Pettiagala or Thotulagala a try, you just might find "lesser" some fightin' words. Brew in 212 f. water 3-5 minutes, depending upon leaf size.


Yours in "Tea Life, Tea Mind,"


Bear, 

International Tea Masters Association

No comments:

Post a Comment