Sunday, August 19, 2012

The Tea Series, Part Six. Lapsang Souchong: Hailed by All, Drunk by Three?

Lapsang Souchong, that magnificent tea savored by connoisseurs, both real and literary, and according to industry sales receipts, apparently drunk by three people...

What, exactly, is Lapsang Souchong?

Literally translated as "small plant from Lapu mountain", Lapsang Souchong was the first recorded black tea produced in history. At its most basic, it is a Fukian (Fujian) black tea that has been cured by smoke.

Superb over ice.
According to a tourist brochure that I once saw "Lapsang gets its distinctive taste from the mineral rich soil in which it is grown". (ahem) Unless you have actually seen this tea produced in Fukien, sans smoke, you have my permission to consider this bollocks! Lapsang is made, initially, pretty much like all quality black (or as the Chinese refer to them "red") teas. Plucked, withered, rolled, and allowed plenty of time for oxidation, it is then placed in bamboo baskets and hung over *just* smoldering pine wood. The amount of smoke imparted to the leaf, much like the decision of how much petit verdot will be added to a given vintage's Chateau Margaux, lies in the hands of the master that oversees the production. A great tea, like a great wine, wants a continuity of house style, and will make micro-adjustments to offset any eccentricities found in the harvest.

Lapsang is a fantastic outdoor tea. It is my sole gardening tea, and in the Summer, I love it iced with a sprig of fresh mint. Another digression: Norwood Pratt (perhaps my favorite tea author of all time) has a great story about Lapsang and the 'Great Out of Doors'. He used to be fond of sailing with a friend of his, Lyle Bongee. Lyle, precisely at 4 pm, would always appear from down below, with a piping hot cup of Lapsang. Combined with the bracing sea air, it was always an outstanding experience.

One day, out of nowhere, a terrible storm moved upon the little sloop while it was far away from shore. The ship pitched, rolled, and nearly capsized a couple of times, Pratt was sure that they were goners. At 4 pm, Bongee appeared from down below, with the Lapsang. Pratt savored the cup as he had never enjoyed it before. For, if Bongee made tea, he (the captain) *knew* they were going to make it. Later Bongee confided that he had no such confidence. It was just that 4 o'clock was Tea Time, and some traditions you just don't screw with.......

Lapsang Souchong may well be considered the "Scotch" of teas. Like Scotch, it isn't for everyone, and is rarely appreciated on the first taste (hence, its light sales). Like Scotch, over repeated exposure, a taste can be developed. Brewed properly, it has a delightful orange-reddish liquor that is reminiscent of Scotch, and has that smoky goodness associated with the likes of Oban, and Laphoraig.

You really should give this esoteric tea a shot. Buy the smallest amount over the sample size that is available (it will take at least 3-4 exposures to come to a truly informed conclusion). At worst, you've added another notch to your tasting belt, and can speak with a bit of authority on it. At best you might have found your new outdoor brew.

Brew with water on the full boil, 5-6 minutes of steeping.

Yours in "Tea Life, Tea Mind",
Bear, International Tea Masters Association

Lapsang Souchong: The Dark Side of the Force

A 'Manly Tea' by twice.