Saturday, August 4, 2012

Tea Series, Part Eight: Defeat Bad Tea with Gung-Fu!

The terms Kung Fu, Gung fu, and Gongfu are usually associated in the West with Chinese martial arts, but what does it actually mean? In its original meaning, kung fu can refer to any skill achieved through hard work and practice. Hence it's entirely appropriate for one hacker to say to another "OK, I admit it, your kung fu is better than mine (asshole)". While not really hard work, the Gung Fu method of tea preparation is more demanding of time and attention than most other methods.
At the surface level, the purpose of Gung Fu tea preparation is to create a dense, almost espresso like manifestation of tea. Along more esoteric lines, performed with practiced grace and guests, it transforms into a meditative ceremony similar to its Japanese counterpart. The accoutrements needed, at a minimum, are a tiny tea pot (preferably Yixing), a decanting vessel, a dump bowl, a couple of thimble sized cups, and (of course) tea.

For starters, get lots of hot water and a bunch of tea (Oolong is generally considered the best for this method). Warm the exterior and fill the interior of the tiny tea pot with scalding water, dump the water, and load the pot about 1/3 the way up with a great tea (trust me, this method will highlight any defect in tea, so choose wisely). Pour in enough water to wet the tea leaves down, and let sit for 3 long breaths. Pour out the water, and inhale that incredible fragrance.


Now refill the vessel with hot water, and allow to sit for 7 deep breaths, pour the tea concentrate into a pre-warmed decanter, and then into the thimble sized cups. Why decant, before you serve? Because this sheer volume of tea utilized in this method will cause the tea served to be uneven in strength, even in the short pouring time between the first guest and the second!

The resulting elixir is incredible! Neither strong nor bitter, but such concentrated bouquet and flavor that the face of the infinite almost becomes manifest. Well prepared, the flavor can linger on a thrilled tongue for up to 10 minutes (not a typo). Repeat the process and, with each repetition, slightly increase the time of water exposure to leaf. One can do this up to eight times and each brew will reveal something new and exciting. Lest you think the Ursine hath waxed poetic, here is a poem, written in gratitude to a Mandarin for a gift of tea, which alludes to the Gung Fu ceremony:


"The first bowl sleekly moistened throat and lips,
The second banished all my loneliness
The third expelled the dullness from my mind,
Sharpening inspiration gained
from all the books I've read.
The fourth brought forth light perspiration,
Dispersing a lifetimes troubles through my pores.
The fifth bowl cleansed every atom of my being.
The sixth has made me kin to the Immortals.
This seventh..."
I can take no more.

 
—Lu Tung, 8th century Chinese Poet


If you are even mildly interested in preparing tea this way, you owe it to yourself to give it a try. I shill for no company, but the 'Enjoying Tea' site has a plethora of beautiful sets, including a reasonable one for starters.  http://www.enjoyingtea.com/stgoteaset.html


Yours in "Tea Life, Tea Mind",
Bear, International Tea Masters Association.